Dining Out - Gluten Free
When traveling along your gluten-free journey you will come across several camps regarding
dining out.  You will find varying opinions in postings on the gluten-free support boards and
blogs regarding the safety of food provided by restaurants, expressing all sorts of opinions
about this restaurant and that restaurant, and some of them are actually backed up with facts
and personal experiences.  Many however, are posted second-hand, coming from, “my best
friend’s uncle’s neighbor’s sister said Arpeggio’s Pizza now offers the best gluten-free octopus
and pepperoni pizza in the world.”  Now this begs many questions, such as, are the gluten-free
pizzas cooked in a separate oven away from other gluten-laden products?  How is cross-
contamination managed?  Are the servers trained to address “special needs” diets?  The list of
questions is almost unending.  So let’s try to address the GF safe dining issue from a practical
approach rather than an interrogative theoretical toss of the dice by taking a look at the
different styles, markets of restaurants, business models and staffing.

While the number of gluten-free restaurants is growing daily, the level of gluten-free awareness,
appreciation and marketing has a long way to go.  While the awareness and appreciation
factors might initially weigh in heavily in the decision making process as to whether or not a
restaurant business can support a gluten-free menu/initiative, it all comes down to financial
viability; can a restaurant make a reasonable profit “going gluten-free” or offering gluten-free
options.  We must remember restaurants are really supposed to make one thing.  Money.  We
want them to make money.  If they don’t make money they are out of business, and therefore no
GF options.  How well they accomplish this goal of making money is a reflection of literally
hundreds of daily business decisions.  What to buy, from whom to buy, what quality to buy,
recipe development, training, menu printing, liability, etc.  The outcome of all of these decisions
affect the bottom line, and ultimately the ability (or lack thereof) to offer a safe dining experience
to those with Celiac or other medical conditions affect by gluten.

Let’s first usher the elephant out of the room.  Most fast food chains will not, and cannot,
provide financially viable gluten-free options.  The McDonald’s, Burger King,  and Jack-In-the-
Box business models are designed to sell inexpensive food and a lot of it at a reasonably low
price point.  They maintain their low cost models by utilizing staff with a relatively low level of
training that require a dependence on their systems, equipment, timers, etc. rather than
individual responsibility and a culinary understanding of their products.  In-and-Out Burgers is
an exception because:  1. Their menu is very simple and straight-forward,  2. Nothing goes in
their fryers but potatoes so there is almost no risk of cross-contamination via oil as would be the
case with restaurants that fry battered products, and 3. Their staff is specifically trained to
understand that they offer one GF option, a burger without a bun called “protein style.”

Fast food chains purchase large amounts of food in bulk, process it, package it, and ship it to
commissaries where it is then delivered to the local franchises.  Despite the number of people
and organizations involved in the fast food supply line, these companies profit by doing things
very efficiently while maintaining low costs.  “Gluten-free” dining options don’t even show up on
their radar.  Why? Because there are several huge expensive challenges to overcome.  

Challenge 1:  Training (or lack thereof).  Fast food chains do not typically hire trained chefs that
understand culinary fundamentals of cooking, not to mention specific safe food handling with
respect to gluten-free cross-contamination.  The staff preparing the food knows little about the
origin of the food, much less what ingredients and additives are in the food.  

Challenge 2. The front-line cooks in fast food chains are too far removed from the source of the
food to know whether it is GF or not.  The reason for this is because the larger chains, fast-food
or otherwise, typically get their groceries and supplies from the franchise commissaries, not
from the actual producer.  While some of the larger chains may grow their own produce and
raise their own cattle, there are many steps and handlers between the farm and the table.  
Unless the cooks are directly involved in the procurement process, they are operating at an
informational disadvantage with respect to the knowledge of what ingredients are safe and
those that are not.

Challenge 3.  Most fast food chains utilize some types of equipment to basically automate part
of the production of food.  This automation precludes the need for chefs or people who
understand actual food preparation, not to mention automation rules out cooking “specials” for
those of us needing a deviation from the standard menu.  Add to this challenge that some
equipment would require a tear-down and thorough cleaning in order to produce a GF safe
product such as a fryer that would have to be drained, cleaned, refilled with oil and reheated in
order to safely fry an order of french fries.

Challenge 4:  Communication.  Here in Arizona, many of the workers at the fast food (as well as
any other) establishments speak English as a second language.  Many foreigners are willing to
work for lower wages which is attractive to any business.  It is not uncommon to find Hispanic
kitchen staff in local Asian or Italian restaurants.  Recently, I wanted to ask a question of the
cook in one of the best Thai restaurants in Phoenix/Scottsdale but couldn’t because I do not
speak Spanish.  This is not unusual here in the Southwest.  Being able to ask questions of the
food preparation staff and having the other person understand the questions is fundamental to
safe dining.  Just try ordering something as simple as a burger cooked medium rare at the local
McDonald’s.  You’ll get either a blank stare, ignored, a smile with a nod or a confused deer in
the headlights look, but the burger will still be cooked the way they are all cooked – well done
and dry.  Now try communicating the term “gluten-free” to someone with limited education
speaking a different language.  It simply is not worth the risk.

Fast food chains are successful because they do what they are designed to do and they do it
very well.  However, their business models fortunately preclude gluten-free options.  Fortunately
because the food produced at most fast food chain are basically not that healthy in the first
place – gluten-free or not.  Let's remember, they do create jobs and that's good for the tax base.

There are however, some (non-fast food) chain restaurants that ARE embracing the gluten-free
communities and doing it quite well.  The two examples are PF Chang’s China Bistro and
Maggiano’s Little Italy.  Their approaches to meeting the needs of the GF communities are very
different, but both work extremely well.

PF Chang’s takes a comprehensive “systems” level approach to meeting the needs of the GF
communities.  Their approach is integrated with the suppliers, cooks/chefs, and servers involved
with all aspects of the food.  Thanks to Gregg Piazzi, the Director of Culinary Operations, PF
Chang’s is one of the leaders in paving the way for healthier options for those with Celiac (and
other allergen related issues).  Here are some of the things PF Chang’s does to ensure client
safety:

  1. Since many of their ingredients come from the Orient where food labeling is not as strict
    as it is in the United States, PF Chang’s maintains contractual agreements with their
    suppliers that forbid them to make any changes to their formulations/ingredients without
    approval from PF Chang’s.
  2. Constant monitoring.  PF Chang’s continuously monitors, tests and verifies that GF foods
    are in fact GF.
  3. PF Chang’s uses separate, cleaned and plastic-wrapped woks and utensils for GF
    orders.  When a GF order comes to the front line, a cook gets a new clean and wrapped
    wok and utensil “kit” to cook that ONE order.  When the order is done, the wok/utensils
    are washed, dried and plastic wrapped and shelved, waiting for the next GF order.
  4. One person handles the GF order from start to plating.
  5. A different plate design is used so the servers can immediately recognize which plates
    are GF.
  6. Managerial and waitstaff are professionally trained to handle special “allergy” foods.  
    They also have a readily available cross-reference chart for their dishes as a function of
    allergens.
  7. Most importantly, GF offerings are not a side-note on the menu.  Gluten-free items and
    entrees are now incorporated into the regular menu.  While I don’t need to eat gluten-
    free, I select some of the gluten-free options simply because of the great taste (such as
    the GF Mongolian Beef)

Another example of a restaurant successfully meeting the needs of the GF community is
Maggiano’s Little Italy in Scottsdale, AZ.  Their approach to GF is successful because of its
simplicity and the fact that they have professionally trained chefs and kitchen managers readily
available to meet special needs diets.  Debbie and I have dined at Maggiano’s in both
Scottsdale and Denver, CO and received the same professional service with outstanding food
each and every time.  When we arrive, Debbie simply asks for either the kitchen manager or
chef.  More times than not, the chef will come to our table to make recommendations and often
take the order personally.  Chef Eric Martin at the Scottsdale facility represents the highest level
of professionalism and sincerely supports the Celiac and Autism gluten-free communities.  His
restaurant offers GF bread as well as rice and corn pastas.  The bread is outstanding.  The
greatest thing Chef Martin offers is his attitude towards customers that have special
requirements.  This alone brings repeat business as well as spreads his good reputation.

Chains aside, my first preference for safe GF dining is to seek out the small restaurants and
bistros that are known for high quality food.  Examples include Oceana in New York City, TAG in
Denver, and a local favorite of mine is House of Tricks in Tempe, AZ.  Executive Chef Kelly
Fletcher of House of Tricks consistently and very energetically wows our palates, often cooking
off the menu on the fly to meet Debbie’s needs.  On one occasion, to Chef Kelly’s dismay, a
bisque was unfortunately and disappointingly thickened with flour by a junior chef.  He said to
Debbie, “How about I make you a fresh ginger and five-spice carrot soup?”  I don’t care for
cooked carrots, but knowing Chef Kelly’s ability, I decided to risk it and went for the carrot soup
too.  It only took him 15 to 20 minutes to make a simply amazing, rich and hearty soup.  Chef
Fletcher later returned to the table to make sure we were delighted.  This type of behavior is
typical of a great chef – being ready and able to think and cook off the menu to meet a
customer’s needs – and doing so with a smile.  

In contrast, we have however had two “learning” experiences that were eye-openers.  Both
involved staff with unaccommodating attitudes.  The chef only pointed out a couple things that
he thought were safe, and the other was a cocky know-it-all waiter that told Debbie the Crème
Brule was not gluten-free because it had milk in it.  He obviously didn’t know the difference
between gluten-free and dairy-free.  The main problem in these two situations is that neither
cared to listen to the customer and much less “be bothered” with a special diet.  Since then,
when we come across this type of attitude, we politely excuse ourselves and leave.

To wrap up, here is what we do when we dine out.  Research the restaurants in the area and
learn who the notable restaurants and chefs are.  Call ahead and ask to talk with either the
kitchen manager or executive chef to ascertain what their GF capabilities are, but please don’t
call during peak service hours as these people are extremely busy during those times.  Make a
reservation asking the person taking the reservation to make a GF notation on the reservation.  
Make the reservation a day or two ahead; this gives the chef a chance to plan, shop for special
GF ingredients, and prep so they can offer some nice options.  Most importantly, when you are
served a great meal with excellent service be sure to LET THEM KNOW.  Your gratitude paves
the way for establishing the GF communities as gracious and generous customers and thereby
helps minimize the combination eye-roll and heavy sigh we sometimes get.

GF dining out need not be a fretful experience.  It is a matter of understanding how various
levels of restaurants do business, and not having expectations that do not match the business
model for a given restaurant.  Journey on and eat well.  Bon Appétit.

Blessings,
Chef David Hall, CGC
Thyme for a Chef, LLC
www.thymeforachef.com
david@thymeforachef.com
Copyright 2011, Thyme for a Chef, LLC.  All rights reserved.